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EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 



BY 

RUTH STEVENS REED 



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LYNN, MASS. 

THE NICHOLS PRESS 
1921 



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Copyright, 1921 

By ruth STEVENS REED 

Lynn, Mass. 



MI\R 23 1921 

C1A612244 



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^ BETTER DRESSING ON SMALLER EXPENDITURES 
A HEALTHIER BODY TO CLOTHE 
HEALTH — EFFICIENCY 



Better Dressing: Line, Color, Individuality 
Smaller Expenditures: Time, Energy, Material, Money 



REASON FOR COURSE 

The Clothing Efficiency Course was outlined to solve a 
few of the most serious problems confronting the average 
homemaker who attempts to do simple clothing work in the 
home. 

These problems were selected from the results of surveys 
made by the author during a period of fifteen years. 

It was her desire to ascertain what were the outstanding 
problems that prevented efficient results. Many surveys 
taken with different groups of women showed: 

Great expenditure of time. 

Needless loss of nervous energy. 

Enormous waste of material. 

Results were rarely commensurated with effort and means 
expended. A majority of the women stood without regard 
to health or appearance. 

A study was then made to decide upon a few definite points 
that were common difficulties among average homemakers. 



Plan of Course 

A healthier body to clothe, underwear for protection, 
dignity, refinement. 

Simple outside wear so divided into groups that each may 
be studied as a basic type. 

Developments of these types that will cover the needs of 
any conservative woman. 

The work to be given as a Preliminary Course and a 
Development Course for each type. 



6 EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 

Stress is laid upon three phases conducive to health and 
closely allied to clothing. 

Flat heels, full diaphragm, high chest. 

The owner of a wooden building would not consider a 
coat of paint or new awnings when underpinning was wobbly, 
the framework out of plumb, and the ridge-pole decidedly 
sagging. 

Much more necessary is it that our human dwelling be on 
a sane footing — proper footwear — with carriage such 
that our organs are correctly poised, that each organ may 
function as it was created to do; and chest line normal 
instead of the criminal slouch so commonly adapted by our 
younger women because it is fashionable, and by more 
mature women because they have so carelessly neglected 
posture, while time has been given to dress or accessories. 

Only a small percentage have taken into account this 
fundamental necessity. The idea is advanced that not 
until the body posture and undergarments are properly 
cared for should dress be considered. 

Then discuss Hne, color, and individual need, keeping 
in mind always that ''Our type of clothing is indicative of 
our attitude toward many phases of life." Are we simply 
tolerating present modes of dress or are we actively engaged 
in raising the standard? 

1 Improved health through correct posture. 

2 Increased efficiency not only in clothing work, but in 
everything undertaken by the women who have thoroughly 
interpreted the course. 

3 A saving of 30% to 75% in time, energy, material and 
money. 

4 A new appreciation of the beauty of simple Hnes, and 
resulting from this, more independence and individuality in 
dress, and better style with less care for prevailing fashion. 



EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 7 

5 A new realization of the dignity and worth of all home- 
making tasks. 



Higher Standards of Clothing with Efficient 
Execution 

Women have steadily awakened to the advantages gained 
by motion study and apply the few lessons outlined in this 
series to almost all the phases of their work in the home. 

Only an entering wedge has been put into the efficiency 
phase which will be stressed until women begin to realize its 
possibilities and make it a working part of the business of 
homemaking. 

The Author. 



SUGGESTIVE OUTLINE FOR GROUPS 

Taught hy Local Leaders 

LESSON I 

Emphasize correct standards based on healthful, natural 
and therefore artistic proportions. 

Test for way belt was adjusted when wearer dressed. 

Give thirty minutes drill on measuring. 

Measure pupils very carefully. 

Start top of five gore draft. 

Drill on efficiency in movements. Ninety-eight per cent, 
should have this. 

Home Lesson 

Practice until the top of skirt draft can be completed in 
three minutes without lifting square from paper. 

LESSON II 

Teach darting, laying stress on cultivating healthful 
Hnes in order that there may be Uttle need of darts in the 
average garment in the near future. 

Make five gore draft to floor length and turn into a three 
or four gore pattern labelling before cutting apart. 

Home Lesson 

Make dust ruffle petticoat draft, and combination skirt 
draft. Label on both sides the draft made in class. Pre- 
pare four envelopes according to directions. 



10 EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 

LESSON III 

Verify the drafts made at home and cut apart. Label on 
both sides and put in envelopes. 

Review measuring and teach changing of original 36 
waist pattern to individual measures. Cut out in cambric 
after it is adjusted. Explain making of belt. 

Home Lesson 
Baste cambric pattern with ^ inch seam and make belt. 

LESSON IV 

Teach ''line-up." 

Prepare cambric line-up for future work. 

Home Lesson 

Measure a larger and a smaller woman and experiment 
in changing the 36 pattern to her measure. 



LESSON V 

Cut and label on both sides French corset cover pattern 
and forward shoulder waist pattern. 

Teach lap placket. 

Pin the combination patterns on cloth emphasizing accur- 
acy and economy in placing patterns. 

Home Lessons 

Cut and make top and bottom of combination according 
to typed notes, but do not put together until after belt lesson 
is taught. 



EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING n 

LESSON VI 

Teach belt lesson using a make shift belt for the drill. 

Teach '^crease placket" and ''tuck ruffle finish" using 
first paper and then cloth for models. 

Teach placing "dust ruffle" pattern on cloth economically. 

Teach details of finish for petticoat and the quick and 
accurate making of bias binding for top. 

Home Lesson 

Complete combination. 
Cut and make petticoat. 

LESSON VII 

Teach sleeve draft; — lingerie, tailor, bishop. 
Give motion drill for sleeve draft. 

Home Lesson 
Practice until a sleeve draft can be made in three minutes. 

LESSON VIII 

Start lesson on Study Dress. First emphasize em- 
phatically that it is a lesson in eliminating false motions and 
each step is to be studied for the reason why. 

Cut and baste skirt. 

Not how far you go on this lesson, but how thoroughly 
you teach the elimination of waste motions is what you 
should consider. 

Home Lesson 

Efficiency in motions can best be taught in class, therefore, 
the waist cannot be worked upon at home at this time. 



12 EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 

LESSON IX 

Cut and baste waist. 

Review belt lesson and teach the putting of waist and 
skirt together without trying on. 

If time permits, put dresses on — one at a time and have 
class discussion on line and proportion. 

Home Lesson 
Make sleeves, and practice on previous motion drills. 

LESSON X 

Complete study of individual dress as each one is put on 
separately. 

Teach simple dress finishes. 

Home Lesson 
Complete dress. 

LESSON XI 

General review emphasizing places where unnecessary 
motions may be eliminated. 

LESSON XII 

Study and discuss possibilities and modifications of 

Study Dress. 



EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 13 

SUGGESTIONS FOR MEASURING 

Measure as nearly as you can to what the woman ought 
to be, not necessarily what she is. 

Her measurements ought to spell health, and in as far as 
they fall short, she has not the most important foundation 
for being a well dressed woman. No expensive clothing will 
hide this deficiency. 

Arrange around the waist a narrow belt, or tape measure, 
if a belt is not at hand. (All intending to teach — even a 
few — should have in their kit what we later will call a stay 
belt, because used to stay, either a waist or a skirt until 
permanent belt is put on.) 

Pin the belt in front where it ought to be. 

Test front and back lengths. 

Front length must be more than back. At least one-half 
inch — might be several inches. 

In difficult cases after front length has been lowered all 
it is advisable, then raise back to make proportion pleasing. 

Waist and hip measures particularly waist measures 
must be taken easily. I would always keep them in even 
measures — the next larger even one — 37^'' call 38''.) 

To save waste motions in taking measures, use following 
order: — front width, sleeve length, elbow and hand, waist, 
hip, front length, hip length, back length, back width. 



Skirt Measures 

In front drop five inches below belt when it has been 
adjusted. At this point, take hip measure parallel to floor. 

Hip measure should not exceed waist measure by more 
than ten inches for health and charm of fine. 



14 EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 

Reasons for Health, Comfort and Appearance 

If hips are much more than ten inches larger than waist, 
make waist measure larger, and urge constantly for a corset, 
so selected, and so put on daily, that the difference cannot be 
as great much longer. 

Take measure for length of skirt from belt line to floor, 
taken to floor, so it can be adjusted to any length, for age, 
style or taste. Back length should always be at least 
one and one-half inches more than front length. If not, 
urge more daily correct carriage. 



Waist Measures 

Take front width across chest about midway on curve 
of armseye. Take it as wide as possible without sleeve line 
appearing to full over arm. 

Take back width midway of sleeve curve of armseye, and 
easily, giving all the room possible. 

In other words as wide as shoulders will carry without 
sleeve line appearing to fall over arm. 

Front width should exceed back width. One inch is a 
normal difference, but one and one-half to two inches would 
mean a higher chest and better carriage. Therefore, urge 
practice, that it may be acquired before Course II begins. 



Sleeve 

Length taken from armpit to wrist line on inside of arm 
while arm is extended. (Place measure around elbow and 
bend arm to limit for elbow size needed.) 

Wrist measure taken easily over knuckles while hand is 
held limp. 



EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 15 

TO CUT CAMBRIC LINE-UP 

1. Fold cambric end to end. 

2. Pin selvages together on one side only. 

3. Place ''original 36" center front to selvage large 

end down. 

Retain lines of all patterns whether commercial or other- 
wise, take out or let in where it is needed. 

For those who are 15 inches width front, leave front of 
"original 36" as it is. Those more than 15 inches, cut 
straight down from center of shoulder to bottom of pat- 
tern, and separate pieces to make required width. 

If less than 15 inches, tuck along the same line. 

If front needs lengthening to make arm curve long enough 
or to give greater length from shoulder to bust line, cut the 
pattern open horizontally a little over half way down sleeve 
curve and allow as much space as seems necessary, usually 
as much as was allowed in width and often more. It is better 
to allow too much, rather than too little, as the correction 
can be made by taking up a little tuck which is easier than 
opening and setting in a piece, if enough has not been 
allowed. 

If over 38 inch suit is worn, the pattern may need to be 
cut under arm from top of under arm to bottom of pattern 
and allow the following: 

If 40 inch suit is worn allow ^ inch 
If 42 inch suit is worn allow ^ inch. 
If 44 inch suit is worn allow i inch. 

These are merely suggestions that apply to the majority 
of cases and may need increasing for individual forms. An 



i6 EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 

exact measure may be taken, but for the first work the above 
plan has seemed best for beginners. 

For a person over i3 inches back width, cut down from 
middle of shoulder to bottom of pattern and separate pieces 
to make the pattern the width necessary. If less than i3 
inches take tuck in same place to make right size. For 
plump backs cut back across pattern midway of arm curve, 
and insert as much as was put in in width. 

The same caution is given for back as for front. 
Jn cutting pattern allow >^ inch at under arm seam at back, 
if over 38 inch suit is worn, as this makes the seam more at- 
tractively placed for larger sizes. 

Center backs placed absolutely on selvage. 



To Baste Cambric Line-up 

Sew back loosely over and over to within 3 inches of 
bottom. 

Baste shoulder Yi inch seam, beginning at neck to pin 
them, with back eased on to front when finished. Difference 
in length of shoulder due to changes made in one and not 
the other, or more on one than the other, are changed when 
line-up is put on and adjusted to figure. 



To Make Belt 

Cut 2j^ inches or 3 inches wide and 6 inches longer than 
waist measure. Always lengthwise of cloth, but it may be 
pieced to save material. 

Turn in J^ inch on long edges and fold over making a 
double belt .1 inch or \\i inches wide as called for. 

Put in a center back mark with white thread. 



EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 17 

1 34 inch for ordinary person (finished). 

I inch for stout person (finished). 

6 inches longer than waist measure (finished). 



SKIRT DRAFT 

1 Measure down 7 inches or 8 inches for waist point. 

2 Measure down 5 inches below this for hip point. 

3 Square in from hip point 3-4 inches, according to taste. 

4 Square down 4 inches. 

5 Spring out 3^ inch — vary according to style. 

6 Draw slant through end of spring and end of hip line 

extending 5 inches above hip Hne. 
Note: From 3^2 hip measure subtract front gore. Divide 
remainder in to two parts so that gore III is i inch 
more than gore II. 

7 Work out hip line of gore II and III according to notes 

so that III is usually i inch more than II. 

8 Draw hip line of gore II. 

9 Square down 4 inches. 

10 Spring (i Ys inch). 

11 Repeat No. 6. 

12 Draw hip line of gore III. 

13 Square down 4 inches. 

14 Spring out (i 34 inch). 

15 Repeat No. 6. 

16 Draw waist curve (add 4 inches if inverted plait is 

desired.) 

17 Raise last line as many inches as back length exceeds 

front length. 

18 Draw new waist curve. 

19 Extend slant lines to new waist curve and down as far 

as required. 



i8 EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 

20 Waists must be darted to correct measure in two or three 

places. 

(a) Between I and II usually Y^ inch on each side of 
slant line. 

(b) The most between II and III. 

(c) Yi inch at very back may be taken out but it is 
better to work for proportions that do not need it. 

21 Set off front length on first two lines. 

hip length on next line, 
back length on last line. 

22 Draw bottom curve. 



SUGGESTIONS FOR DARTS 

In my endeavor to base all clothing work on "Health 
First," the following suggestions are given. 

First — remember that the most healthful waistHne needs 
little if any darting. 

Second — make every endeavor by physical training to 
decrease the difference between hip and waist measure. 
Keep it not more than lo inches if possible. 

Third — try to learn that an inch taken from the hip measure 
and added to the waist measure is an addition to health 
and gives one a slighter appearance. 

Notes on Darts 

Two inches to dart — divided according to figure. 
Normal }^ inch between I and 11. 

1 3^ inches between II and HI. 
Full back Y inch — i inch — Y inch. 



EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 19 

To dart Yi" %" i" iM" iH" iM" 2" 

I o ^" %" Y" 3^" ^" H" 

II Vi" y^' %" %" I" iVi" iy2" 

If difference exceeds 2 inches I should make my belt 
longer and call the darts 2 inches. This is the largest dart 
allowance I would recognize. 

Work by more healthful corseting and simple physical 
culture exercises to make it less than 2 inches. 

FRENCH CORSET COVER PATTERN 

1 Use line up, keeping fronts together and back double. 

2 Pin each section carefully on paper and cut one paper 

front and a half back. 

3 Measure out from neck curve three inches from 

center front to shoulder and draw larger neck curve. 

4 Repeat for back. 

5 For lower curves drop one inch at center front and center 

back and recurve to nothing at shoulder seam. Cut 
out on curved line. 

6 From bottom at center front measure up one inch on 

center front and gradually curve from this point in to 
the original curve about two-thirds of the distance to 
underarm. Cut off bottom along this line. 

7 Measure in three-fourths of an inch at bottom of back at 

both center back and underarm seam and slant to 
nothing at neck curve and armseye. 



20 EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 

LAP PLACKET 

• Uses 
Tailored sleeve. 
Shirt sleeve. 
Blouse sleeve. 
Combination skirt placket. 

Practice Drill 
Pieces of paper. 
Pieces of firm cloth. 
Complete for notebook model. 
Cut 3 inches x 6 inches. 
1 3/2 inches x 4 inches. 
7 inches x 7 inches. 

Motions for Drill 

1 Fold }4 inch seam on long sides of oblongs. 

2 Fold oblongs lengthwise one thread out. 

3 Find center top of larger or outside lap, holding opening 

toward right hand when right side of placket is toward 
you. 

4 Fold corners down at top making a point as pronounced 

as you desire. 

5 Open lap by bringing the under side out flat with left 

hand. 

6 Continue slanting crease at fold edge of lap down across 

back side of lap. 

7 Close lap and press creases firmly. 

8 Pare off the slant edges to a seam's width or 34 inch. 

9 Practice until paper model can be completed in a few 

seconds. 



EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 21 

For Combination 

Slip narrow lap on to the under side of cut ]4, inch with one 

thread out on the under side. 
Stitch on very edge. 
Slip outer lap on to upper side of cut, so that point of lap is 

on center line of gore i. (See note). 

For Sleeves 

Slip upper lap on, usually width of seam. This prevents a 
gap when sleeve is worn. 

Note: Front gore of combination has been opened down 
center front line the desired length usually from 9 to 11 
inches. 



NOTES FOR COMBINATION 

Suggestions for Laying on Pattern 

1 Fold cloth lengthwise selvage to selvage. 

2 Lay center front of gore i to fold (large end down). 

3 For medium sized person try slipping gore III in be- 

side gore I. 

4 For large persons try gore II beside gore I. 

5 Lay remaining gore on side of selvages. (Large end 

down.) (Always have cloth remaining from any cut 
in one piece if possible.) 

6 Slip corset cover back in beside the above gore with 

center back to fold. 



22 EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 

7 Lay front of corset cover on last. Large end down and 
far enough from selvage to allow for lap and tucks — 
usually about three inches. Lap to be 7-8 inches fin- 
ished. 

Directions for Making 

1 Make corset cover according to labelling. 

2 Run stay thread 1-16 inch from edge all around neck and 

pull until the raw edge is perfectly flat. This will turn 
in when the edge is hemmed or be under the bind and 
prevent the neck from bulging. 

3 (a) Bind neck and sleeve with very narrow bias binding. 

(No. 2.) 
(b) Hem neck and sleeve not over 1-8 inch. (Not 
correct method but may be done.) 

4 Put lap placket in front gore and stitch and press before 

basting the gores. 

5 Baste on right side and French seam scant 1-8 inch. 

6 Turn top down }/i inch — mark by cambric belt and 

apply to corset cover as taught to apply a dress belt. 

7 Stitch once on right side at very edge, 

8 Apply No. 3 bias binding to. wrong side basting it close 

to machine stitching. Finish ends carefully by hand 
and then stitch top and bottom. 

9 Hem bottom J^ inch if lace is to be top sewed on. A 

scant ruffle may be applied by French ruffle finish 
or narrow tuck ruffle finish if preferred. 



NOTES FOR FRENCH SEAM 

1 Baste — away from stitch line. 

2 Stitch — usually width of presserfoot. 



EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 23 

3 Turn and flatten seam. 

4 Turn back and pare to 1-16 inch. 

5 Turn again and stitch 1-8 inch scant. 



BUTTON HOLES 

1 Set points for size. 

2 Draw line for cut. 

(a) Backstitch. 

(b) Cut and bar. 

(c) Overcast. 

(d) Work. 

3 Good points essential. 

(a) Shoal stitch. 

(b) Close placing. 

(c) Even knots. 

4 Horinzontal... i bar end.... i fan end 

Vertical -bar both ends. 



DUST RUFFLE SKIRT 

Cut Percoline skirt with dust ruffle pattern. 
Put crease placket on gore I and II. 
Baste seams on wrong side and flat fell. 



Dust Ruffle 

Cut 5 inch ruffle across cloth. 

Make width of skirt and yi extra for fulness. 

Divide in four sections. 

Gather each twice \i inch apart. 

First gathering 1-8 inch from edge. 



24 EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 

Put good }/2 inch hem on bottom. 

(Never a tiny hem on long skirt.) 



To Put on Dust Ruffle 

Turn bottom of skirt under i inch. 

Stitch }/i inch tuck (exactly) on right side. 

Press down bottom with hot iron, being sure not to leave a 

groove. 
Bring the raw edge up over the tuck. 
Press. 

Pare down until you can just see the machine stitching. 
Turn under part back. 
Baste ruffle to tuck holding the right side up one gathering 

showing. 
Turn the petticoat. 
Baste the back of tuck down. 
Press and stitch on edge of tuck from right side. 



To Finish Top of Skirt 

Make a bias band 3^ inch finished. 

Apply the skirt to it, so that thread of band shows above 

skirt top. 
Hold the band tight. 
Finish ends by hand before stitching. 
Stitch twice at top on right side and once at bottom on 

wrong side. 



Plain Flounce 

One and a scant 1-3 for fulness. 
Always cut on bias. 



EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 25 

Silk Flounce 

i}i yards, i yard wide material or i 3-8, for large people. 

Cut on bias always. 

May be in two sections for decorative purposes. 

Narrow section at bottom. 

Always cut bottom section of flounce first to avoid piecing. 

Piecing does not wear well and may show. 
Width of sections 9-6 inches. 
8-6 may also be used. 

Never make lower section less than 6 inches. 
Hemming on the right side is decorative. 
Bottom hem i inch. 
To determine fulness measure width of skirt 13 inches up 

from bottom and add 34 for fulness. Be sure to have 

ruffle begin below the knee. 
To top section add 1-3 of itself to make bottom section. 
Cut ruffles on perfect bias and measure midway for their 

length. 
If good selvage top sew — if not, flat fell. 
Put on ruffle with tuck finish or 3-8 inch band. 



Detached Flounce 

Bind top with straight band 3^ inch. Press (one thread out) 

before slipping on to gathers. (Ribbon may be used.) 
Put 34 inch tuck in skirt to prevent hooks from tearing out. 
Start at center front and put on hooks and eyes every 3 inches. 



Attached Flounce 

No. I. Put 14 inch tuck in skirt up desired height. Apply 
flounce the same as for dust ruffle. 



26 EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 

No. 2. Bind flounce with straight Yl inch binding. Stitch 

upper edge to petticoat. 
Flounce should be set on skirt 34 inch above bottom of dust 

rufile. 

'Note: Stitch all colored cotton material with silk on the face 
as all colored thread will fade and is too coarse. 



NOTES FOR CREASE PLACKET 

Cut strips. 



I X 13 - 


- if selvage 




iMx i3- 


- if both edges 


raw 


3x 13 







Fold 34 inch seam on each long edges of 3 x 13 and then 

fold lengthwise one thread out. 
Slip this on to the under side of placket 34 inch (short edge 

up) and stitch. 
Lay narrow strip on right side of upper gore. Stitch 34 

inch seam. Smooth back without turning gore edge. 
Then turn strip under, so that 1-8 inch of gore projects con- 
tinuing crease down at least 3 inches. 
Pin upper gore on under gore — the two right sides together 

— with fold edge of upper gore 1-8 inch from stitched 

edge of under gore. 
Pin together at top — bottom — and bottom of crease 

allowing the narrow strip to fly loose. 
Baste and stitch from bottom up into crease and 3^ inch 

above end of placket. Lift presserfoot, reverse cloth 

and stitch back i inch on top of other stitching. 
Finish raw ends by blanket stitch — make stay 34 inch up 

to prevent tearing. 
Note: The points commonly overlooked are in italics. 



EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 27 

SHORT CUT FOR THREE OR FOUR GORE 

1 Draft a five gore outline. 

2 Cut outline only. 

3 Turn to plain side and fold ends of hip line together to 

find center point. 

4 Loosen hold on ends, and holding center point firm, fold 

bottom part so that back section projects about four 
inches beyond front edge. Crease down hip fine. 

5 Dart to measure. 

6 Label carefully before cutting. 



SLEEVE DRAFT 

Required — Oblong 20 x 25 inches folded lengthwise. 

1 On fold set off >2 inch — 5 inches — sleeve length (each 

from point preceding.) 

2 Draw indefinite lines from each across paper. 

3 On at least two of these set off ^^ — = from fold. 

2 

4 Draw outer line through these points. 

5 In 5 inches oblong draw diagonals. 

6 On diagonal running from upper corner on fold divide 

each half into thirds approximately. 

7 At second point from fold draw up ^ inch parallel to 

other diagonal. 

8 At last point draw down J^ inch parallel to other 

diagonal. 

9 Draw lower curve of sleeve from top through ends of 

these lines. 

10 From center of diagonals — on one not used — set a 

point 154 inches up. 

1 1 Through this point from top draw upper curve of sleeve. 



28 EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 

12 At bottom of sleeve set off 2 from open side of oblong. 

13 Draw inside of sleeve from this point up to open end 

of curves. 

Note: At this point sleeve may be made into lingerie, tailor 
or bishop: 

(a) For tailored cut off cuff width from bottom (3 
inches.) 

(b) On under side of sleeve draw a line 4 inches long 
from bottom edge up — and parallel to fold i inch 
away from fold. Cut for lap opening. 

(c) The seam may be curved 3^ inch to I inch at elbow 
for a more pleasing line. 

(d) For bishop mark off desired length of cuff (5 inches) 
on open side (4 inches) on fold. 

Draw line and cut off. 

Curve I inch at elbow. 

If more fulness is desired, spring bottom edge of fold 

allowing as much extra length on fold as spring was 

wide. 

(e) It is advisable to draft for bishop on larger elbow 
allowance. 

14 For lingerie, fold bottom of sleeve up until edge laps 

over lower line of 5 inch oblong about i inch. This 
gives elbow fold approximately, but it is advisable 
to test it later as arms vary. 

15 Pin open edge of top firmly and on upper half of paper 

(which is under half of sleeve) pick up half inch tuck 
at elbow line on open edge, creasing it to nothing at 
the fold. 

16 Holding firmly or pinning tuck to other half of paper, 

recrease sleeve fold from elbow line down. 

17 Cut off projections. 



EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 29 

18 On elbow line set off Yi inch elbow measure and 34 inch 

from fold edge. 

19 On wrist line, set off from fold edge Yi wrist measure 

and }4 inch. 

20 From open end of curves through these points draw 

sleeve curve. 



STUDY DRESS 

Type i 

Order of making efficiently 
Elimination of unnecessary movements 

Forward shoulder waist 
Four gore skirt 

1 For simple purposes usually fold material — end for 

end — right side in. Pin one selvage edge. Lay on 
table with raw ends at left. 

2 Fold lap on far side of cloth and pin (i inch). 

3 Lay center front to back of lap large end down. 

4 Slide back in beside it, as far as it wdll go leaving seam 

allowances. 

5 Place center front of waist (1 inch) back of lap. 

6 Place sleeve beside front, leaving any extra on selvage 

edge for belt. 

7 Pin on back pattern. 

Always arrange entire pattern before cutting 

8 Cut fronts — pin laps separately. 

9 Cut backs — baste back seam before lifting paper 

pattern. 



30 EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 

10 Lay half of back over and place fronts with bias edge to 

straight of back and baste hip seams. 

11 Cut fronts of waist. 
Pin laps. 

Gather shoulders twice 3^ inch from edge and }/i inch 

apart. 
Leave plain 13^2 inch at sleeve end and (2 inches) at 

neck. 
Gather bottom from lap to seam twice ^ inch up for 

first gathering and 34 inch above this for second. 

12 Cut sleeves. 

Gather tops twice 34 inch from edge and 34 inch apart. 
Baste, placing 3^ inch tuck at elbow. 

13 Cut back. 

Gather bottom to match front. 

Turn shoulder seam J/2 inch carefully and baste taut to 

prevent stretching. 
Apply back shoulder to front so that lower gathering 

shows. Allow 1 3/^ to 2 inches of front to project at 

neck. 
Baste underarm seams. 

14 Cut and baste belt — 5 inches longer than waist meas- 

ure, I inch or 1 34 inches wide finished. 

15 Mark belt with pins using two for the crosses, single 

for other marks. 



SUGGESTIONS FOR STUDY DRESS 

1 Know how much material you need and buy just that 

much. 

2 Pin every piece of pattern in place before you begin to 

cut. 



EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 31 

3 Do everything you can to each piece before you touch 

the next piece. It saves motions, material and nerves. 

4 Place pieces of pattern back in envelope when through 

with each. 

5 To prevent stretching cut without moving cloth. Mov- 

ing self is less dangerous. 

6 For center back of skirt, baste while pattern is still 

pinned on. Baste center backs from bottom up to 
prevent stretching. 

7 When basting bias and straight edges, baste with bias on 

top; stitch with bias underneath. 

General Directions for Double Belts, Cuffs, etc., 
When Attached 

1 Turn edges and crease. 

2 Fold edges together with one thread of under side pro- 

jecting. 

3 Press with iron. 

4 Slip on to garment usually the width of a seam with 

''thread out" underneath. 

5 Stitch on the very edge. 

It looks better and irons better. 

"Think three times before you sew on and roll over." 

Ask, ''Why not slip on?" 

TWELVE DEVELOPMENT LESSONS TO FOLLOW 
THE TWELVE LESSONS IN SET I 

At the end of the twelve half day or six full day lessons, 
we have laid a foundation for Clothing Efficiency and the 
following twelve half-day lessons are outlined to perfect 
preceding lessons and patterns and adjust them to indi- 
vidual needs and tastes. 



32 EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 

The work in class in Group I is given as a happy medium 
because classes include all ages and sizes, and one of the 
most valuable features is learning to adjust either way from 
this middle ground as tastes and times require. 

This prepares the way to adjust later for all sizes and 
ages of children. 

First Requirement 

Teach one pupil to see how well you know it. (The best 
way known to perfect your own knowledge of it.) 



LESSON I 



Group discussions on « 

(a) Combination. 

(b) Dust Ruffle Skirt, 
(b) Study Dress. 

Emphasize size of waist as compared with hip. 
Epmhasize size of belt. 

Emphasize ease, practicality and artistry of a loose belt 
line. 

Note: Each garment may seem all right but the questions 
are: 

(a) Is it as good as it could be? 

(b) Could any line of either waist or skirt be improved? 

(c) Is the length pleasing for your needs? 

If a change, however slight, is made in any curve or line, 
make the change immediately on your pattern. 



EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 33 

Thus the second or third garment at the most, becomes 
what you wish, and your patterns are ready for later and 
more advanced work. 

In holding a group discussion, put on the garment and 
stand before the group, not too near, with back toward 
them. 



(Backs are sadly neglected and the public has to look at 
them.) 
Discuss: 

(a) The good points. Why good? 

(b) The features that should be corrected or improved. 

(c) Why are they bad? 

The two whys are very important. 

If you know why a line, curve or porportion is bad, you 
will not only recognize it whenever it exists and make a 
correction, but will avoid a repetition. 

It would be an excellent plan to place on the table the 
patterns of the garment under discussion as you go before 
the group. As fast as any change is decided upon, the 
class have some member make the alterations on the pattern. 

Between each group meeting, devote time to motion drills. 



LESSON II 

Repeat such garments as show need of improving lines 
after holding a group discussion. 



34 EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 

LESSON III 

Make a second study dress to 

(a) Perfect lines. 

(b) Perfect elimination of motions. Class observation. 

Report motion drills of previous week at each lesson. 



LESSON IV 

Study of sleeves: 

(a) Adjusting gathers to personal taste. 

(b) Adjusting elbow tuck or tucks. 

(c) Adjusting size and length to personal taste. 

(d) Design several from pictures using your lingerie 
pattern. 

Note: Consult "sleeve sheet." 



LESSON V 

Separate waist: 

(a) Study sheet "Separate Waist." 

(b) Decide why you need one or more of the sug- 
gestions outlined. 

(c) Make simple waist. 



EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 35 

. LESSONS VI 
Hold group discussion on waists completed. 

LESSON VII 

Study waist designs. 

(a) Those that could be developed from your forward 
shoulder pattern. 

(b) Cut several in paper. 

Call for reports of motion drill from each member. 
If we are to be prepared to: 

(a) Adjust patterns to different measures. 

(b) Teach one or more persons as the need arises. 

(c) Make our lessons of as much or greater value as 
time goes on. 

It is absolutely necessary to be able to make patterns and 
garments without false motions and with confidence enough 
that valuable time is not wasted in hesitation as to what 
the next step is. 

The following time for motion drill is suggested: 

Sleeve draft 3 minutes 

Skirt draft 10 minutes 

Study dress 3 to 4 hours 

(Buttonholes not included) 

Simple waist 2 hours 

Hemstitching used. 

Marking of belt and removing from model 30 seconds 
Marking of belt and pinning to waist under 2 minutes 



36 EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 

LESSON VIII 

Uses of 3 and 4 gore skirt draft. 

(a) Select one suggestion from study page and make 
skirt. 

(b) Discuss types that may be made with this one 
pattern. 



LESSON IX 

Hold group discussion on skirt completed. 

(a) Was this the best type for the wearer? 

(b) Would one of the other suggestions have been 
better? Why? 

(c) Where could this skirt be improved? 

(d) Make note of the change on the pattern at once. 



LESSON X 

Study skirt designs that could be developed from the 3 
and 4 gore draft. 



LESSON XI 

Draft sleeve and skirt to child's measure. 

(a) A small sHght child. 

(b) A young but plump child. 



EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 37 

SEPARATE WAIST 

For those who want: 

1 Broader back: 

(a) Lay pattern with center back to fold. 

(b) Cut neck only. 

(c) Move pattern (J^ inch) from fold. 

(d) Cut. 

The curve of armseye may be slightly straightened. 

2 Blouse in length at back and under arm. 

(a) Drop back {% inch) across entire width, drop 
under arm (on front) to match, curving to nothing, 
half way to front edge. 

3 Extra size under arm. 

(a) }/2 inch may be added entire length of under arm 
seam at back. 

Try making an inexpensive waist using forward shoulder 
pattern and No. 2. 

Put it into I inch belt, using bishop sleeve with cuff, as 
suggested, for testing purposes. Any waist of 
transparent or semi-transparent fabric should have 
shoulder strips, armseye, front lap and cuffs hem- 
stitched. 

USES OF THREE OR FOUR GORE PATTERN 

I Two gore — Whole front and whole back. 
Center front to fold — center back to fold. 



38 EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 

2 Two gore — Whole front — whole back slightly gathered. 

Center front to fold — .center back (3 inches) from fold. 

3 Three gore — Whole front — regular back. 

Center front to fold — back as labelled. 

4 Three gore — Whole back — open front. 

Center back to fold — center front to back of lap. 

5 Three gore — Whole back slightly gathered — open front. 

Center back (3 inches) from fold — center front as 
above. 

6 Four gore — Open front — regular back. 

Center front to back of lap — back as labelled. 

7 Four gore — Mitred. 

Lay lines on pattern to stripe of cloth. 

Adaptations 

No. 3. Sides may be fancy, pinning on additions before 

cutting. 
No. 4. A 2 inch plait down center back. Narrow cloth 

may be pieced under the plait. 
No. 5. Sides may be fancy. 
No. 6. Sides may form a 2 inch plait and button down 

(12 inches). 



SACK TYPES 

Course of Twelve Lessons 

LESSON I 

Blazer pattern. Discuss length that will not make division 

of skirt in halves or thirds. 
Home lesson, cut blazer and baste. 



EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 39 

LESSON II 

Group discussion on individual blazer. 

(a) For shoulder width of back and front as a garment 
to wear over a waist. 

(b) For length below waist line. 

(c) Experiment with several lengths and determine 
most pleasing. 

(d) Design several belts that might be used. 

(e) Design several simple collars. 
Home lesson, complete blazer. 



LESSON III 

Discussion of blazer as a completed garment. 

Is it as good in line as it can be made? 

If not, make suggested changes on pattern immediately. 



LESSON IV 

Make sheet of designs which may be developed from blazer 
pattern. 



LESSON V 

Plan a garment without front opening that will slip on over 
head, using a V front of any desired depth. The shield 
or vest used to close the V hooks on one side. 



40 EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 

LESSON VI 

Plan an open front type with or without revers folding back 
from shoulder to bottom. Discuss length of vest most 
pleasing. Why? 



LESSON VII 

Plan sack tunic types. 

(a) Desirable lengths — Why? 

(b) Advisable disposition of fulness at waist. 

(c) Caution for waist size. 

(d) Vest possibilities. 

(e) Revers or plain sides. 

(f) Interesting sleeves. 



LESSON VIII 

Plan sack dress types. 

Best suited for what types of figure. Why? 

Best suited for what types of service. Why? 



LESSON IX 

Make a sheet of tunic dresses developed from sack tunic 

pattern. 
Work out the design best suited to your type. 



EFFICIENCY IN DLOTHING 41 

LESSON X 

Make a sheet of sack dresses developed from sack dress 

pattern. 
Work out the design best suited to your type. 

LESSON XI 

Make a child's sack dress pattern from a cambric line-up 

adapted to the child's measure. 
Note: In making child's line-up care for part above bust, 

chiefly. Bottom part is belted very loosely. 

LESSON XII 

Make child's slip-on to be worn with plaited skirt attached 
to a waist top. 

BLAZER 

Aim 

To improve lines of pattern for sack tunic or sack dress and 

simple coats. 
To determine depth most pleasing to wearer. 

Steps for making pattern: 



Front 

1 Lay line-up on paper — center front to edge of paper. 

2 Cut neck. 



42 EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 

3 Move line-up back }/i inch. 

4 Extend underarm i inch down and re-curve bottom to a 

point about half way to front. 

5 Extend length (15 inches) continuing underarm to that 

depth. 

6 Cut out front pattern. 



Back 

1 Lay center back of line-up to edge of paper. 

2 Cut neck. 

3 Move pattern back 34 inch. 

4 Drop a perpendicular line from waist line end of under- 

arm seam parallel to center back. 

5 At hip — (9) inches from waist — spring out (4 inches). 

(The spring varies according to hip size. For extreme 
size spring front also.) Through this point draw a 
straight line from waist point, also from top of under- 
arm. (Then draw a line halfway between these two.) 

6 Make skirt length match front (15 inches). 

7 Move underarm seam over i inch. (Fold the inch off 

the front that is added here.) 

8 Cut out back pattern. 

Steps for making garment: 



Front 

1 Lay lap desired. 

2 Lay pattern to center of lap. 

3 Cut neck or leave uncut for rever. 



EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 43 

4 At waist line take (i inch) tuck at underarm running 

horizontally toward center front and gradually decreas- 
ing to a point 5 inches or 6 inches from seam. The 
tuck at waist line may be hemmed or run down, keeping 
it in harmony with waist slant. 

5 Cut remainder of front. 

Remaining steps same as previously taught. 

No. 4 may be optional. 

Sleeve — use sport, lingerie or anyone adapted to use of 

garment. 
When under group discussion for pleasing length even off 

front to taste. Always keep it Yi inch longer than 

back. 



QUIZZ ONE FOR FIRST MONTH 

1 Can you put on a belt without hesitation? 

2 How do you arrange sizes for sleeves? 

3 Caution for top of sleeve? 

4 Is your belt line in front low enough when compared 

with back length of waist? 

5 Can you turn hem as taught? 

6 If waist blouses too much in front where would you 

think the trouble might be? 

7 Is the neck of 'your forward shoulder pattern filled m 

3-8 inch for safety? 

8 Did you take H inch from shoulder line at armseye and 

slant to nothing at old shoulder line? 

Suggestions for First Month 

1 Prepare envelopes. Label according to directions. 

2 Complete and label on both sides patterns in envelope 

1,2,3,4- 



44 EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 

3 Perfect yourselves on Quizz i. 
Envelop i. 

French Corset Cover 

Peplum 

Combination Skirt 
Envelop 2. 

Dust ruffle skirt 

Yoke 
Envelop 3. 

3 or 4 gore skirt 
Envelop 4. 

Forward shoulder 

Lingerie sleeve 

Collar 
Envelop 5. 

Tailored sleeve 

Bishop sleeve 
Envelop 6. 

Accessories 
Envelop 7. 

Circular tunic 
Envelop 8. 

Cambric line-up and belt 
Envelop 9. 

Original 36 
Envelop 10. 

Braiding patterns. 



QUIZZ TWO FOR SECOND MONTH 

1 List kinds of two-piece skirts you have seen. 

2 Tell how to use your 3 or 4 gore pattern for above. 



EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 45 

3 Give two ways your 3 or 4 gore skirt draft may be made 

wider or narrower. 

4 Rule for putting waist and skirt together without a belt. 

5 If your waist measure increases, how do you change 4 

gore skirt draft? 

6 Where do you use reverse seams? 

7 What is your shortest time estimate for 5 gore skirt draft? 

8 Can you make 3 adaptations of forward shoulder? 

Suggestions for Second Month 

1 Put personal notebooks in order. 

2 Complete and label on both sides patterns in envelopes 

5 and 7. 

3 Perfect Quizz 2. 

4 Make a list of six questions you do not fully understand. 

5 Review 12 lesson outline of preUminary course for points 

overlooked. 



QUIZZ FOR THIRD MONTH 

1 If sleeves pull off badly at shoulder what change may be 
made in draft? 

2 Give personal time test for sleeve draft. 

3 Have you adjusted your sleeve draft to your taste? 

4 Are all your petticoats remodelled to eUminate puckers 
and pull strings? 

5 Are yoke and peplum patterns both completed? 

6 Are all patterns labelled in Large Letters on both sides? 

7 Are all your notebooks in order? 

8 Have you tested the bottom curve on all skirt drafts? 

9 Can you make a good curve for top of sleeve? 
10 How many people have you taught? 



46 EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 

Suggestions for Third Month 

Compare note book with each member of group and fill in 

omissions in your book. 
Arrange notebooks in order best suited to your individual 

needs. 
Make a sleeve sheet showing six changes that may be made 

in the top part of sleeve draft. 



QUIZZ FOR FOURTH MONTH 

1 Can you measure a person correctly? 

2 Have you practiced on changing an '^ original 36" for 

difficult figures? (Practice only will give you con- 
fidence.) 

3 Are you sure of your dart adjustments for all figures? 

4 Are you encouraging larger waists and smaller hips? 

5 Have you made a combination? 

6 Have you made a dust ruffie petticoat? 

7 Can you visualize the steps for making a study dress 

without false motions? 

8 Have you made a time test for turning a hem? 



Suggestions for Fourth Month 

1 Put your personal measurements on proper page in 

booklet. 

2 Make a study of each page of the Teaching Set. 

3 Check off those you have perfected. 

4 Make a test garment incorporating any new point brought 

out in a group discussion. 



EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 47 

QUIZZ FOR FIFTH MONTH 

1 Have you removed the puckers from all your petticoats? 

2 Have you made a simple waist since receiving sheet for 

"Separate Waist"? 

3 Have you held a "sleeve day"? 

4 Does your notebook contain a set of sample finishes? 

5 Are you lacing your corset every morning? 

6 Are you carrying your chest at its highest point? 

7 Have you experimented on at least one of the skirts 

suggested on "Uses of 3 and 4 gore"? 

8 Are you counting the number of colors you wear at one 

time? 

Suggestions for Fifth Month 

1 Go over each Quizz One to Four separately and check off 

every question you are not sure of. 

2 Make a class notebook which shall contain all that each 

member may have jotted down. 



QUIZZ ONE — SET TWO 

1 Are you carrying your chest high whether sitting or 
standing? 

2 Have you an unrestricted diaphragm, full and free? 

3 Are your heels low and broad? 

4 Were your corsets properly fitted when purchased? 

5 Did you lace them this morning? 

6 Were you flat on your back while lacing? 

7 If wearing a transparent waist, have you sufi&cient 
underwear above the waistline? 



48 EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 

8 Are you doing all you can to influence others, particular- 
ly our young women and girls to wear sufficient under- 
wear beneath their waists? 

9 Are there any puckers or pull strings in your petticoats 
or corset covers? 

10 Are your belts easy? 

1 1 How many colors are you wearing at one time? 

12 Are you wearing more than two ornaments at one time? 



QUIZZ TWO — SET TWO 

1 Look over wardrobe carefully and list the different 
colors found. 

2 Ascertain if coats and hats with dresses found, make one 
color scheme. 

3 Have you made your speed tests? 

4 Have you made a pocketbook card? 

5 Have you a correct book record of size of belt found to 
be most pleasing? 

6 Can you make separate waists to suit individual tastes? 

7 Have you started a clothing budget? 

8 Have you made an inventory of clothing on hand? 

9 Is it well balanced? 

10 Have you one outfit that harmonizes from shoes to 
hat, gloves included? 

Educate the eye to the rythm of pleasing lines and forms 

and harmonious colorings. 
Establish a correct standard of taste. 
Initiate admiration for that which is ''truly artistic." 



EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 49 

QUIZZ THREE — SET TWO 

1 Have you an outline of what your tastes, needs and 
income permit? 

2 In your kitchen have you a plan of just what you use 
in your scheme of menus? 

3 Are you sure that generally speaking, barring out 
perishables, that they are on the shelves? 

4 Stand in the middle of the pantry and plan — now if 
company should come what is there here that would 
form a dinner? 

5 Can you feel that at any time, if you came home late 
and found guests waiting, that you would have an 
attractive emergency menu? 

6 Your wardrobe should be planned in the same way. 
Take time and ask yourself — have I the necessities my 
work or my social position or both require? If not, do 
not wait until the time comes when you need an outfit 
on short notice and then bemoan the fact that you 
haven't anything to wear. 

7 Are you thinking each time you dress, that the belt 
must be adjusted so that front waist length exceeds 
back waist length? 

8 Have you made a copy for your notebook of everything 
that has been sent with the various quizzes? 

9 Have you visualized the different steps in changing an 
original 36 for any type of figure? 

10 Are you having a group discussion of some phase of the 
work at each meeting? 

Our type of dress is often indicative of our attitude toward 
many problems of the day. 



50 EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 

QUIZZ FOUR — SET TWO 

1 Select during the current month a picture of a garment 

that could be develope'd from blazer pattern. 

2 Select a picture of a garment that could be developed from 

sack dress pattern. 

3 Select a picture of a garment that could be developed 

from three and four gore skirt pattern. 

4 Make a survey of present wardrobe. List every piece 

of your wearing apparel under the following heads: 

(a) Ready to wear this spring. 

(b) Can be renovated or repaired for summer wear. 

(c) Must be used for a smaller person or good parts 
of it combined with other material. 

Make the report in detail. 

5 List what you want to make for spring and summer wear. 

Suggestions 

Work out question 4 and 5 in February. Get well started 
on the actual work in March. Complete it in April and 
then when a warm day comes in May you are ready. 

The method of working out question 4 may well furnish 
material for a valuable group discussion. 

In the same manner plan to make a fall survey in Sep- 
tember, get well under way in October and complete the 
work in November to be ready for winter wear by December 
I. 

Household duties thus organized become a well regulated 
business managed in an efficient way. 

QUIZZ FIVE — SET TWO 

I Review all Quizzes in Set i. 

(a) Spend 15 minutes of each meeting on health 
work (Correct posture). 



EFFICIENCY IN CLOTHING 51 

Is there a pattern in all your sets that is not perfectly 
satisfactory? If so and you know how to change it, 
please do so immediately. If you do not, consult class. 

Have you put each one of your study garments before 
your group for discussion? 

Have you personally answered question 7 of Quizz Two, 
Set I? 

Draft a sleeve on }i scale. Draft a sleeve on }4 scale. 



Suggestions 

Select a current issue of Elite, Pictorial, Delineator or 
circular sheet and make a class study. 

Mark all suitable for a conservative home maker's ward- 
robe. 

Divide these marked into the four groups or their com- 
binations into which we have classified our clothing work. 

From those placed in Group i or 2 (gored or sack) or 
their combinations develop a class sheet of at least three 
of the most desirable, marked desirable for the following 
points — simplicity, readily adjusted, and refined. 

" Too little attention has been given to full 
bodily development, which after all, is not a 
matter of heredity or environment, but of 
intelligent training.'' 

From Gov. Coolidge's inaugural message. 



LIBRPRY OF CONGRESS 



014 061 823 8 # 



